I will build the superstructure subassemblies first, paint and rigg prior to attaching them to the hull. It sounds counterintuitive, but the glue will stick just fine afterward.Īs far as rigging, there is a lot more than most think, but most of it can be omitted and still have rigging that looks complete. I will wet the plastic deck with water prior to applying the wood decking to cut down on the bubbles. Yes, the thickness issue can be a deterrent, but I've noticed that once everything is on you really don't notice it as much. I have also used wood decks and I like them. Eduard IMO is the easiest since they show exactly which part to replace and where it is. I've used Tom's several times and yes you do need to resist the urge to pull your hair out sometimes. Mike Ashey has a building manual on the this model which would be a great thing to have on this build. That being said, it is easier now hiding seams with Perfect Plastic Putty since you can clean up excess putty with a wet q-tip, toothpick or a finger. On the other hand, the edge of the wooden deck makes it easier when you are attaching the railingby giving you an edge to butt the railing up to. Bollards, hatches, etc lose their look by jot standing as proud as they should. The downsize with the wooden decks, can be as Bill says, bubbling with humidity, scale effect and the loss of or lessening height of deck details. and Pontos has a Blue deck for this model. Personally, I prefer Pontos decks over ArtWok because the Pontos is a bit thinner and they come with decals for depth markers, etc. I would also recommend getting a wood deck for this model as there are three sections to the main deck and the seams can be difficult to hide. Each set also has both details and railing In one package. Tom’s is fine but not as forgiving as the other two when it comes to multiple attempts at glueing.
I like Eduard’s instructions and the weight/strength of Gold Medal. For PE, I would recommend Eduard or Gold Medal PE over Tom’s.
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